01/16/04

Simple, even austere, Italian and Continental cuisine in the heart of the cultural district.

by Contributor

The Scene
Chef David McKinney has been around the piazza a few times. The former chef at Ciro's and London Grille had his first major success with Jake's on the Square. Now his groupies fill the large banquettes and the generously roomy tables at this restaurant near the Golden Triangle. Full linen service as well as attentive waitservice adds to the quality feeling of the place.

The Food
For appetizers, salsicce fagiole e scarola (a.k.a. sausage, cannellini beans, and eascarole) is the house specialty. Meat entrees are where the menu excels with the roast rack of lamb with mustard and breadcrumbs getting stiff competition from the stuffed veal. With the exception of fine shrimp, the shellfish here tends to be below the fine quality of other ingredients. Save room for dessert. The pumpkin cheesecake is something to write home about.

• Pros: great service